Plaster repair
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Wipe up any drips or overspray with a damp rag. To prevent this, saturate those surfaces with conditioner. Wet the Substrate Photo by Ben Stechschulteĭry lath and the exposed plaster edge will suck water out of wet plaster before it has a chance to harden. Wait 15 minutes, then fill all unmarked holes with a squirt of plaster adhesive. Vacuum the holes and spray them with plaster conditioner. If it misses, pencil a mark by that hole. Using a 3/16-inch masonry bit, drill holes every 3 inches around the damaged area, about 1 inch from the edge. Stabilize the Wall’s Edge Photo by Ben Stechschulte Then you can screw new or loose lath to it, as if it were a stud. If there’s no stud to anchor a lath end, slip a piece of lath into the cavity and screw it to the back of the existing ones, parallel with the studs. Use drywall screws, and always drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood. Replace any missing lengths of lath, and refasten all loose pieces.
Plaster repair how to#
How to Repair Lath and Plaster in 6 Steps 1. It’s a common practice to replace missing plaster with a piece of blue board (a wall board made to be coated with plaster), but troweling on base coat is faster. Finish coats came after the base had dried. Several coats were applied, the first keying into the spaces between the lath to make a stable base. Into the 20 th century, plaster was applied over wood lath spaced half an inch or so apart over the studs or ceiling joists.
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If the lath is in good condition and you need to repair holes, patching is a matter of troweling on layers of mud. Don’t use so-called patching plaster sold at home centers, it’s much harder than the wall’s original plaster, and it sets in the blink of an eye. It’s better to use a softer, slower-setting lime-based plaster, like the one developed for Big Wally’s line of plaster-repair products, takes about an hour to set, isn’t prone to cracking or delaminating, and needs no sanding, which keeps dust to a minimum. How Do You Repair a Hole in Lath and Plaster Walls?įor lath and plaster repair, it’s important to use good techniques and the right materials.
Plaster repair Patch#
First, you’ll repair the lath and then patch the hole. A good skim coat will leave you with a smooth surface with no need for further sanding.Ĭongratulations! Your plaster repair is complete.If you’re dealing with damaged lath and plaster walls-for example gaping holes in the wall because of electrical work-here are techniques you can use to repair them. Apply a final skim coat, pressing the knife firmly against the wall or ceiling. If needed, apply a second coat, smoothing, sanding, and feathering as you did for the first. Once fully dry, smooth any ridges and bumps and sand as needed, feathering the edges to blend into the ceiling or wall. Spread the first coat an inch or so past each button and let dry overnight. Use a small joint knife to cover the buttons with all-purpose joint or spackling compound.
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Be sure to use galvanized screws, as plaster is corrosive.Ĭover buttons. Carefully drive a screw into each hole until the head is below the surface of the plaster and the button is concave. Place a one and one-fourth-inch drywall screw into a plaster button at each hole.
Plaster repair install#
If the bit drives through the plaster without hitting lath, mark that hole with a pencil so you’ll know not to install a button there. Space them about four inches apart where the plaster is sagging, with a one and one half-inch space from the edge. Use a one-eighth-inch masonry bit to gently predrill holes through the plaster but not through the lath. Clean up rough edges with a utility knife. Be careful not to force the plaster off and remove only pieces that are damaged or loose. Do this until you reach a point where the plaster has a stronger bond to the boards, also known as lath, underneath. Prepare area: Begin by scraping away any loose plaster from the wall.